Frequently Asked Questions


Boron Nitride Thermal Paste: Why do I need it and what are the benefits?

Boron Nitride is a compound that helps with heat conduction. We suggest using it on any surfaces that need to conduct heat - between the heater cartridge and hotend, temperature sensor and hotend, and nozzle and hot end. Boron Nitride is great for the Mosquito hotend, but will also work nicely with any other all metal hotend.

Do you  have groove mounts available for the Mosquito?

We’re not huge fans of the groove mount adapter system… but for those with a groove mount on their printers, we have a nice solution that mounts to the Mosquito hotend.

I'm experiencing filament jams when printing PLA! Help!

By design, the Mosquito hotend is created with more precision than the typical hotend. More precision leads to better prints, but also means some filament materials may require more finesse to dial in the settings just right. Check out this great article on adjusting your printer settings for PLA: 

I bought a Mosquito hotend, now how do I get it on my printer?

We have a whole list of adapters you can print on our Adapters page, and are constantly adding more. If you choose to print an adapter, we suggest using a material with a glass transition temperature above 90C (Tg>90C), such as ABS or PETG to provide more rigidity at elevated printing temperatures.

If your printer isn’t on that list, let us know and we’ll try to get one built.

We also have a few all metal adapters for a variety of common printers.

Should I buy a more powerful heater cartridge?

Yes! It will allow you to reach higher temperatures, expanding the range of filaments you can print, and will help you reach normal operating temperatures faster.

However, please check that your printer puts out enough power to support the heater before purchase!

I clogged my heat break! What do I do now?

All hotends can clog at times, and all-metal hotends can be more prone to clogging with PLA. The simplest way to clear a clog in the heat break of any all-metal hotend is to perform a cold pull or atomic pull.

If that doesn’t work, the Mosquito hotend has been designed with high temperature materials in mind. Simply disassemble the Mosquito by removing the hot block (nickel colored component that contains the heater and sensor) and heat break (filament path) from the heat sink (black component with the Mosquito logo on it) by removing the tiny M1.4 screws with the hex key included with your Mosquito hotend. Place the hot block and heat break into an oven at 500C, and burn out the plastic. Please do not put the heat sink in the oven. It will deform. Also, please do not burn yourself.

I bought the Slice High Temp Thermistor. Now What?

The thermistor (temperature sensor) on your printer is dialed in with your printer’s control board. When installing any new thermistor, including Slice’s High Temperature Thermistor, you will need to ensure the proper settings are input into your firmware, and should run a PID tune on your controller. The RT table for the Slice High Temperature Thermistor is available here.

Duet3D natively supports the Slice High Temperature Thermistor.

Marlin now supports the Slice High Temperature Thermistor. Select Thermistor #67 in settings.

We are constantly working with other firmware developers to include the Slice thermistor out of the box.

Why is the fan on my Mosquito louder than I’m used to?

We use a tiny, but surprisingly high flow fan on the Mosquito hotend. High flow does generally equal more noise. Mosquito doesn't actually require much airflow, but it can be useful for high temperature prints in a warm/heated enclosure.

For everyday use, most users will prefer to turn down the fan in their slicer.  70% speed is a good starting point. You can always turn a fan's speed down, but you can't turn it up past 100%, so by giving you a faster fan we provide a greater range of options for different applications. 

I bought the Mosquito hotend, but I don’t know what to do with the fan…

That’s a statement, not a question, but we’ll still answer it. The Mosquito hotend can actually function without active cooling (a fan) when printing certain materials, but it is advisable to use a fan when printing with PLA.

The cooling fan can be positioned on either side of the heat sink, but it must face the heat break. Meaning, airflow should be directed (“pushed”) toward the heat break, NOT pulled through it.

What is the difference between the Mosquito hotend and the Mosquito Magnum? And why would I want one over the other?

The Mosquito Magnum has the same high temperature performance, small form factor, and light weight as the standard Mosquito hotend, but offers a much higher volumetric flow rate of melted plastic. For users who routinely print with nozzle sizes of 0.6 mm or greater, we highly recommend the Mosquito Magnum for it’s higher flow rates. For those that use nozzles smaller than 0.4 mm, the standard Mosquito will suffice to meet or exceed all of your flow rate needs.

Now that I have the Mosquito, what should I set my retraction settings to?

For direct drive extruders paired with the Mosquito series of hotends, we recommend setting your retraction to the same distance as the diameter of the nozzle you are printing with. Ex: when printing with a 0.4 mm nozzle, set the retraction distance to 0.4 mm in your slicer.

For bowden setups the length of the bowden tube heavily influences necessary retraction lengths, and will require some tuning. We recommend halving the retraction setting used with your previous hotend (before Mosquito installation), and tuning from there.